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2018 Cabinet And Countertops Trends For Kitchen Idea

  • Listed: May 13, 2019 2:54 am


Our installation includes two pieces that form the countertop for the kitchenette – a main counter with a kitchen sink and a small wing that also fills in the corner. Solid-surface countertops, like the type we are using, typically require specialized tools and materials, making professional fabrication a norm. Since kitchens are almost never perfectly square or level, it is important to know where the countertop may need to be a little deeper or a little narrower to fit the walls as precisely as possible. When measuring the cabinets, be sure to add in the desired countertop overhang, typically 1″ from the face of the cabinet frames and ends. The countertop sits directly on the base cabinets, so it’s a good idea to check that the cabinet tops are level.In areas where no cabinet will support the countertop, it may be necessary to install support cleats.

Spaces for undercounter appliances, like dishwashers or refrigerators, may also need cleats to be attached to the wall to support the countertop. However, if the space between the cabinets is less than 30″, it doesn’t hurt to add a little extra support. Whether the sink mounts over or under the countertop, installing the sink before installing the countertop often makes for an easier installation. Dry set the sink and mark the locations for the mounting bracket and anchor plugs. Pour a little water on the surface around the hole to help keep the drill bit cool.Put a small dab of two-part epoxy in the holes and insert the anchor plugs. Once the countertop is installed, all that remains is to connect the supply lines. Use the appropriately sized diamond hole saw to drill the faucet holes. Insert the faucet assembly and secure it with the mounting nuts. Solid-surface and natural stone countertops are typically fabricated with a thickness of 1-1/2” to 2” and can be installed directly on top of the base cabinets. The use of silicone sealant on top of the cabinets will create an adhesive bond and minimize any lateral movement in the countertop. Check for proper alignment and gently apply downward pressure to create a good seal with the silicone caulking. As this requires special tools and experience, seaming and buffing the countertop joints is often a job for a professional installer. Tape along both sides of the joint, leaving just enough room to fill the joint. Remove the tape and let the caulking set up for about an hour. Be sure to identify the hot and cold sides and make connections to the appropriate feeders on the faucet.

Any other connections in the sanitary drain must be glued together to seal the pipes from leaks and to prevent any sewer gases from escaping. Make any glued connections first, such as a drain extension from the rough plumbing at the wall. Finally, temporarily remove the aerator in the faucet spout to prevent it from being clogged by any loose debris in the plumbing when you first turn on the water. Ryan’s knowledge and ability as both architect and builder enable him to address both the technical and practical sides of the comprehensive body of construction knowledge. Countertops not only provide the main work surfaces in a kitchen, but they also offer an opportunity to add a splash of color and materiality to the space. Installing kitchen countertops seems like a pretty easy task – set the countertop on top of the base cabinets and secure it in place. Planning the fabrication of the countertop begins with taking measurements and determining where to locate any joints, if necessary. It helps to sketch a diagram of the countertop for use in labeling the measurements and noting any special fabrication issues. Use a hand plane, belt sander, or coping saw to trim any cabinet tops that may cause the countertop to teeter. Corners are a common location where cleats can be necessary. Strips of scrap wood, such as the 2 x 2, work well for cleats. Use a stud finder or test nails to locate the framing members in the wall. For our project, we are installing an undermounted, single-basin, stainless steel sink.

Use a 3/8” diameter diamond-tipped hole saw to drill 5/8″ deep holes for the anchor plugs. Spread a bead of silicone around the perimeter of the sink opening to keep the assembly watertight. Fasten the mounting brackets with screws at each of the anchors. This helps to minimize the work and time spent inside the cabinet and under the countertop. Review the manufacturer’s instructions to determine the number of holes necessary for your specific faucet and mark the location of the faucet holes. Spread a bead of silicone sealant around the holes, per the manufacturer’s instructions. The mass of the countertop and gravity will keep the countertop in place. Spread a bead of adhesive silicone caulking along the top edges of the cabinets. With some help, set the countertop assembly onto the cabinet. However, to achieve a hidden seam, it may also be necessary to buff the joints to level the countertop and blend in the color-matched grout. If the countertops match up well and a hidden joint is not important, as in our project, clear silicone caulking is adequate to seal the joint and prevent any water from penetrating into the cabinets below. The trap kit typically includes slip nuts and gaskets that seal the connections but also allow you to disassemble the trap for access. Dry fit the trap and drain assembly to check for proper connections and add or adjust any pieces as necessary. Turn the pipe a quarter turn and hold it in place for 20-30 seconds to allow the adhesive to set. Turn the water supply valves on and run the water for a couple of minutes. This architectural experience is balanced with a background in general contracting of residential and light commercial construction projects.

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