- Listed: March 5, 2019 7:10 am
Today let’s take a look at how to install an undermount kitchen sink with a focus on properly supporting the weight of the sink. Kitchen sinks are too heavy to mount directly to the concrete, so special preparations must be made. Once the countertop slabs are set down, you usually will not be able to fit the sink through the hole, and you won’t be able to properly seal between the sink and the underside of the countertop. We’ll talk about 3 different ways to install sink supports below. Apply a generous bead of caulk around the top of the sink’s flange.Install the adjacent countertop slabs over the sink, sandwiching it between the countertop and the cabinet frame.
Instead, you build a support out of plywood, and the cabinet frame together with the support bear the weight of the sink. Always leave some wiggle room between the sink bowl and the cradle so that you can align the sink with the countertop hole. The plywood has a hole cut into it that the undermount sink drops into. Sometimes it’s useful to rout a roundover along the inside edge of the hole. The hole in the plywood must be large enough to allow for tools to access the faucet and plumbing hardware.Take care when applying the silicone caulk along the flange of the sink that it is generous enough to create a watertight seal, but not so much that it is messy. Therefore, you must seal the underside of your sink openings so that only sealed concrete touches the silicone. Small bathroom or bar sinks are easier – they typically can be mounted directly to the concrete using the hardware provided with the sink. The hole in the plywood must be large enough to allow for the sink to be moved to align it with the hole in the countertop. In addition, it’s important to cut holes for all the plumbing and faucet fixtures that mount to the countertop. Bare concrete will react with silicone to produce a nasty-looking, oatmeal-like consistency that will ooze out of the sink joint.
DIY Quartz: Putting In The Sink by dohiy.com
The first part was fairly easy, although the holes drilled in the countertop gave us some pause. From there, it’s basically the same as hooking up any faucet, except we had an extra line for the sprayer and a hook-up for the dishwasher. The first thing we did was put the sink in place against the underside of the quartz. This line would keep us from epoxying something where part of the sink needed to be.
The funny thing about the clips is that they come with no explanation whatsoever. Put on eye protection and nitrile or latex gloves; open a window because this is going to get stinky!
The next evening, the epoxy was well and truly dry, meaning we could put in the sink. Then, we let the sink down just enough to apply clear silicon sealant to the top of the sink rim. I used a paper towel dabbed in rubbing alcohol to help clean up the excess that was squeezed out. The silicon conveniently oozed between the quartz and the front rail, and we dotted it a few other spots underneath the counter to keep it in place (not that it was going anywhere).
We tightened these up, but not torque-wrench tight–just nice and secure against the rim. After reading about sink failures(!), we wanted to add some support. Add support under two small overhangs (not technically needed, but will look better). The new quartz brings in a lot of light and although the kitchen wasn’t dark before, it has a whole new lightness now. Thinking of hanging a mirror ball to further the effect!
Is there any way to drill a hole after the quartz is installed?
Thank you for the only solid advice on the internet!
You array the clips around the edge of the sink close enough for the clip portion to overlap the sink rim. Actually, we bought two and returned one when we didn’t break into it. Once there was a continuous bead there, we jacked the sink into place, checking again that it was within the traced line and that it was all correct on top. I understand that epoxy is strong stuff, but it just didn’t seem like enough. Kev had to push the existing drain pipe down a bit to accommodate the lower sink, and the pipe from the drain assembly had to be shortened a bit, but otherwise, it all went together quickly.
Our slab was too big to lift and couldn’t handle it.
The Importance Of Caulking With Undermount Sinks by thespruce.com
Undermount sinks, on the other hand, have no problems with water spillage onto the countertop, since they hang down below the top of the countertop. Denatured alcohol should be used to clean off all surfaces prior to caulking. Start by crawling under the sink and first checking to make sure the clamps are securely holding the sink to the bottom of the countertop. Kitchen sinks are typically either drop-in sinks (also called self-rimming ), or they are undermount sinks that are secured beneath the cutout opening in the countertop, essentially hanging from the bottom of the countertop. But because the rim is raised up above the surrounding countertop, water can spill out onto the countertop. Moen, maker of sinks and fixtures, recommends pure, 100% silicone sealant for undermount sink installation. Then, from inside the cabinet, apply new 100% silicone sealant to the seam around the sink.
An Undermount Sink In Laminate Countertops by thecraftpatchblog.com
They are specially constructed to be undermounted with laminate!
You cut the sink hole so that the white band lays flush with the surrounding wood and the laminate countertops cover that section to give you the seamless, water-tight installation.
We kept adjusting things until we felt happy that the sink was centered under the window and that it was the right distance from the faucets and the front edge of the counter. This hole should only be big enough for the bottom part of the sink to fit in. First drill a pilot hole, then use a jigsaw to cut the sink hole. Contact cement takes 30 minutes to dry, so after the required 30 minutes, mix up a two part epoxy and spread it around the edges of the sink. Then we switched to an 8 degree chamfer bit for the final precision cut. What is the name and color of the laminate you used?
I do wish we had purchased the wire rack to go in the bottom of the sink. I was so tired of crud getting stuck against the ridge of the sink. The first think you have to do is decide on the placement of your sink. The white band around the top should sit on top of the hole. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to adjust things until it is perfect. When it’s dry, sand it down until the sink and countertop are seamless and completely flat and smooth. This stuff has a five minute dry time, so you have to do it at the very last second, then hustle to glue down the laminate.Drill a pilot hole big enough for the router bit to fit through. This part was fun because suddenly the sink appeared from under the laminate!
We have a few scratches in our stainless steel that could have been avoided if we had the rack to protect it.
Install A Bathroom Countertop Sink by hometips.com
When installing a self-rimming sink in a new countertop, the first step is to make a cutout for the bowl. Similarly, dual sinks are typically spaced evenly on the countertop.Use the sink manufacturer’s template to draw the cutout line on the countertop. Using a power jig saw (saber saw), begin cutting along the line. Place a bead of plumber’s putty around the bottom edge of the drain-assembly housing’s lip, then press the housing into the drain hole. Set the sink in place, firmly pressing down all edges to assure a secure seal. Fortunately, nearly all self-rimming sinks come with a template that you can use to mark the exact size and shape of this hole on the countertop. On a small vanity, you generally plan to center a single sink, both from side to side and from front to back. If no template is provided, set the bowl upside down on the countertop and trace the outline, then draw a second line about 3/4 inch inside that line to serve as your cut line. Carefully drill a 3/8-inch starter hole inside the cut line. Before finishing the cut, screw a scrap board longer than the span of the cutout to the center of the cutout to prevent it from falling when you finish cutting. Attach the gasket and washer, then tighten the locknut (hold the handles of a pair of pliers in the housing with a screwdriver to prevent the housing from turning while you tighten the locknut). When the faucet is in place, turn the sink upside down and run a bead of silicone adhesive along the underside of the molded lip (adhesive is included with some sinks).
- Commercial Undermount Sink Bracket – concretecountertopinstitute.com
- Source – dohiy.com
- Undermount Stainless Steel Kitchen Sink and Tile Counter – thespruce.com
- Source – thecraftpatchblog.com
- Trace Template Onto Countertop – hometips.com
- Videos – Countertop Sink Installation | By Sikana English, HouseImprovements, MaineGraniteGuy, UstaTV, Joseph K, Formica Group North America
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