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How To Make A Laminate Counter Top And Install It • DIY Making

  • Listed: March 5, 2019 7:33 am

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Update your kitchen by building a new particle board base covered with attractive laminate with matching bullnose edging. Replacing the sink with a new stainless steel or porcelain model is no extra work, but it will provide extra value in enhancing your kitchen and bringing it into the current decade. Cut laminate panels for tops and thin strips for hidden edges, scoring the laminate with a carbide-tipped tool and breaking it along the score-line. Brush the dado, tongue and adjoining surfaces with glue and press place. Apply construction adhesive to the backsplashes, pressing them into place.Drill starter holes at each corner and cut the opening out with a jigsaw.

Ron: –and make new blanks they call them and then put this on top. Ron: and it, so it’s not sticky if you touch it with your finger. Ron: and this color here, it just it’s you and it picks up a lot of the elements in this room. Build a new laminate kitchen countertop with bullnose edging and replace the sink to update your kitchen decor. Hold the trimmer perfectly flat against the laminate, moving from left to right.


How To Make Kitchen Countertops By Yourself | Duration 40 Minutes 40 Seconds

Squeeze a bead of white silicon caulking along the backsplash-tile joint, but use clear caulking at the countertop-backsplash joint. Draw a second line 1/4 inch inside the original outline as the cutting line.

How To Make Cheap Countertops by homeguides.sfgate.com



You can nail it directly to the tops of the cabinets, finish the edge with molding, and finish it with two coats of polyurethane to resist water. If the countertop is over 96 inches in length, divide the measurement in half and cut two equal pieces that add up to the overall length. The extra inch in width is where the fascia molding will be nailed on. Butt it into the wall on the back or on the sides if needed. If the butt joint isn’t perfect, use a sanding block with 100-grit paper to smooth and flatten the edges that join together to get a fit as tight as possible. If two pieces butt together, add one piece to start out with. Brace the piece of pine with one hand by reaching under the top through one of the doors or remove a drawer if necessary. Measure and use the miter saw to cut three-quarter-inch alder to fit around the outside perimeter edge of the countertop.

Smear glue on the back of the alder, place it on the front edge of the plywood, flush it at the top and shoot pin nails through it spaced every 6 inches to secure it to the front edge of the plywood. Putty all of the nail holes, joints and edges using a putty knife and wood dough. Use a paintbrush to coat the countertop and molding with a light coat of polyurethane. This hardwood plywood is the most affordable of all the plywoods because it has numerous splices and some defects that add to the ambiance of the plywood. While you save money, this countertop imparts the look of fine woodworking to any kitchen, recreation room or den. Set the fence on a table saw and cut a sheet of birch plywood perpendicular across the grain at the measurement. If you desire an overhang on ether end or on the side, cut the plywood accordingly. Draw a light pencil mark on the front of the cabinets where the interior jambs run horizontally across the cabinet. Force the countertop tight against the wall in back with your hip. Shoot pin nails vertically straight down through the plywood around the outside perimeter three-eighths inch from the edge spaced every 6 inches. Shoot four pin nails evenly spaced through the plywood into the horizontal jambs from front to back using the marks you made on the front of the cabinets. Smear glue on the pine and stick it flat under the first piece with one edge extending out far enough to support the other side of the butt joint. Nail it around the perimeter just as you did the first piece.

image How to Make a Laminate Counter Top and Install It • DIY Making

Shoot pin nails down through the plywood to secure the brace to the bottoms of both pieces of plywood at the butt joint. If the countertop has exposed sides, miter the ends of the alder at 45 degrees to fit. Sand the countertop with a hand block and 100-grit sandpaper. Brush another coat of polyurethane on the countertop to finish.

DIY Countertops You Can Make In A Weekend by homeadvisor.com



While this is the traditional way to create concrete countertops, there’s an easier way .

You might find some resources that recommend an acrylic or wax sealer, but these won’t keep out stains well. Glue the wood pieces together in a block the size of your counter space using a waterproof adhesive.

You may consider planning the top to get it perfectly smooth. If you don’t do any planning, you’ll need to sand the top to get the surface smooth and uniform. Bathroom countertops can be sealed with a urethane to keep the water from doing damage. Here’s an overview of how to install beautiful countertop options yourself.

You may have seen concrete countertop tutorials that require measuring your space and building a mold in the proper size first, which you then fill with concrete. Formica or smooth tile surface to get the same great look without all the work of making — or having to lift — concrete slabs. Mix small amounts of concrete at a time, apply a thin layer to the countertop with the trowel. Don’t worry if they are not perfect; you can sand them to perfection at the end of the project. Apply a second coat after the first coat has dried, or cured, for at least 24 hours. This step may take some time to complete as you’ll be creating the finished look of your countertop. Finding the right sealer for a kitchen countertop can be a challenge. What you want is a penetrating sealer like that used on outdoor patios, but that is safe for use around food. After the initial seal coat, you’ll need to re-apply every 6 to 12 months to keep the countertop protected.

You can buy already-made wood countertops, but making them yourself from lengths of maple or cherry can save you money. If this isn’t in your realm of expertise, a local woodworking shop can do the planning for you. Wood countertops in the kitchen usually aren’t sealed — that can make the benefits of the wood surface for cutting go away. If you have small scratches or indentations, you can remove those with a fine grit sandpaper before you oil. Have any problems as you work, or think this is beyond your abilities?

Learn more about the costs of countertop materials and installation.

How To Make Concrete Countertops With Pictures by wikihow.com



You want to start by measuring the area you need to cover with your countertop. Try not to do anything to big all at once, as this will be very difficult to place.Keep in mind that there is usually a 1″ overhang from the edge of the cabinets. Then, transfer that shape to some high density, firm foam (like what is used in flower arranging) and cut it out.

You can cut the melamine using a table saw or similar tool. Cut the sides for your melamine, choosing your desired thickness. Adjust the measurements for either the short or long ends, depending on how you want the boards to overlap.

You could also go the opposite way, and adjust the long sides back down to 60″.Using basic butt joints, drill pilot holes and then screw the sides of the mold together.

You need to make sure the foam is as least as high as your mold. If the sink will go at the edge of the counter, it might be better to simply build this into the mold, cutting it out ahead of time. Tape around the inside seams of the wooden mold, leaving just a slight gap (about 1/8″) between the two piece directly over the joints. Use a carpenter’s level to make sure the top edge of the form is level all the way around. Optional — lower the final weight by adding more foam throughout the mold. Take some more foam and cut it to be only half the height of the mold. It will take up a lot of the space the concrete would have, but is much, much lighter. Take up all the foam pieces together on both sides with packing tape, including the outside edges. Cut and fit your steel re-enforcement wire into the concrete.

You may need to cut and bend it a bit to fit it snugly into the molding. This is important, as you’ll want strengtheners and other filler materials to make your concrete function better for this purpose.

Your local home improvement store should be able to help you locate both of these products.This isn’t completely necessary, but is important for preventing cracks and creating a countertop that will last a lifetime. This will take off any extra concrete and make sure the top is level. Work the edge back and forth along the top, like you are leveling floor in a measuring cup, to distribute the concrete evenly. Extra concrete should be held onto for later, as it may help fill in spots. Vibrate the whole table your form is resting on if you can, but at a minimum gently vibrate the sides of the form to get rid of any bubbles.

You can also use a rubber mallet, striking the sides of the mold and bottom of the table. Smooth everything out, then create a nice, rounded edge around the entire mold. Repeat this process again, especially the troweling, after 2-3 hours. Cover the concrete with plastic and then allow it to cure as long as instructed by the manufacturer. If you need, a small spray of water makes the concrete a bit easier to work with. If a little concrete pulls off with the wall, you can trowel some of the excess concrete back on with a spritz of water. This final troweling provides some smoothness and character to your countertop. With a friend, lift the countertop and remove the mold and bottom. Once you’re sure it is dried enough that it doesn’t slump (in which case you would still have the side walls on, get a friend to help you raise the top of the countertop. Let the countertop hang over the edge, at least slightly, to allow air underneath to dry. Put on some rubber gloves and then wipe down the countertop with a mixture of 10 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid to remove any remaining residue and prepare the material for sealing. If you want to color the concrete, add it after everything has dried. Wipe this in long strokes, overlapping each stroke with the next, until the entire counter is covered. If they are small enough not to stay in place using their own weight, use adhesives. Make sure to add this into measurements for any sides not attached to the wall. If you need to have a cutout for the sink, measure or trace the shape that you need onto some paper or cardboard. This cardboard square will help your visualize the sink or other object and cut around it when preparing the countertop. Cut a base for your mold using the measurements that you took, but with 3/4″ added all the way around. For example, if making a countertop that is 25×60″ big, cut a piece of melamine that is 26 1/2″ x 61 1/2″. Cut the side pieces to the desired thickness of your countertop, plus 3/4″ on both ends and one of the sides to adjust for construction. How this is done doesn’t matter, just as long as they make the shape of the base.

We could then adjust the measurement of the short sides to 25″ so that they can nest between the long side pieces.

You can then attach the sides to the base in the same way. Using rubber cement or another strong, even-drying adhesive, glue the foam cutout for your sink to the location it will go for the counter. When you pour the concrete in, the foam needs to prevent any concrete from getting into the sink area.

You should then run a line of caulk along all the seams and form it to the joint using your finger. This will prevent any concrete from leaking out unattractively. If needed, sand it down to make sure it is all nice and uniform. This little trick greatly reduces the final weight, and the necessity for more concrete. Then, leaving 1-2″ between the walls and foam, glue down the foam. Make sure you leave the gap around the edges — you need to concrete around the entire perimeter.

You don’t want to add it in now — you just want to make sure it fits.

You will also want to use a pre-mixed, high strength concrete. Generally, less water is used for high strength concrete than normal concrete. Using a shovel or scoop, pour your concrete into the form until it reaches the top edge of the form all the way around.

You can also add extra strength by cutting and placing a steel mesh in the wet concrete halfway through the pouring process, so that it is completely entombed in the material. Continue adding the last half of concrete over the re-enforcement.

You can always skim some off, but it is much harder to add in later. Using the edge of a flat board, lay it across the top of the form on one end and then slide it back and forth as you move down the frame to the opposite end.

You can use the edge of 2×4, or speciality concrete working tools.Take any excess concrete and use it to fill in any low spots.

You can use a sander on a low setting, without any attachment, and run it along the entire edge of the form, for the easiest solution. Even just lifting and dropping the whole table 2-3″ inches, bouncing it rapidly, is perfect. Use a float or trowel to smooth out the entire top of the concrete, and use and edging tool to bevel the entire edge. Then trowel out any imperfections created by the edging tool, and let it sit. When you can press into it and only create a small dimple, you’re ready to move forward. Unscrew the sides of the form and gently pry the melamine off of the concrete. If not, use your trowel to smooth out the outside edge of the counter into a clean, even surface. Trowel over the top of the concrete as well, waiting until it is almost completely dry. It is not entirely necessary, but will lead to a prettier countertop. Rip out the foam and pull off the molding, exposing the bottom of the counter top. Remember, the concrete should just barely indent under your finger. Using a sander and increasingly high grit sandpaper (120, 180, 220), sand your countertop and the sides until it is completely smooth.

You can use any sort of coloring you want, as long as it is made for concrete. Using a penetrative sealer, fold a rag as flat as possible and then saturate it in the sealer. When they’re shiny and the wax is absorbed, you’re good to go!

Check for level and if they are not, use wood shims underneath to get the desired level. He creates and shares inspiring video tutorials on building projects, from furniture construction to metalworking.

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