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Support For On Granite Counter Top. Overhang End Of Run

  • Listed: March 9, 2019 8:22 am

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Does my fabricator have to provide some sort of rod support?

No one will recommend an overhang over about 6″ without support. Over the course of time, something will happen with a large overhang. I would think thats because on the overhang you would be able to see the underside of the gramite/plywood. And don’t want the brackets, so we are having a 1/4″ steel plate made that will be 3″ in from all edges.But my plan was to get 1/4″ steel plate, probably 4″ x 18″ and use a router to cut recesses in the cabinet tops.

What made it work without triangle supports or corbels is that the fabricator cut a 3/8″ slot in the underside of the granite countertop for the horizontal piece. The only problem with it is that you see it from the edge on both sides. Secured to a knee wall the way mjohnson suggested is great!

They recommend at least 3 for my 8 foot countertop, but we’re doing 4- 1 toward each end and 1 on each side of the sink where the overhang is most vulnerable. I did not ask about hole drilling because we can do that ourselves.No matter where you put them, they are always in the way of the chairs and/or the knees!

The countertop that the granite is glued to is only six inches wide which runs across the 7 foot area. Our fabricator made relatively flat (think they’re about 1/2″ thick) steel bars to support it. Our granite simply sits on top of the bars and are secured with silicone, though the weight of the stone will keep it pretty much in place on its own. They added wood cleats 1/2″ down front and back for the bars to rest on.

You don’t want the weight of the granite to rip the top 2×4 off. I have a granite countertop/bar already installed in my kitchen. I only have 2 large support brackets holding it along the wall (it is sitting on top of a 6′ long wall reinforced with 2×4. Either install new corbels or the use large steel plate idea from bikerdave. Any thoughts or ideas about going forward with this?

If you have drywall covering the knee wall now, they would just cut slots out to set the bars into it.

During our conversations with our granite providers, they mentioned that they began supporting stone overhangs with the steel “sheets” mentioned previously but had an experience with one warping over time. I see this done very offend by granite fabricators but have not seen this idea shown on this thread. The process of adding steel strips to in the fashion you described is called ‘rodding’. I intend to support the whole countertop including the overhang with 5/8 plywood. Plywood is ok but metal tubing attached to the cabinet and extending into the overhang area will give you the best support. Is 5/8 plywood sufficient support for a 12 to 13″ overhang?

Generally that is the homeowner or contractors responsibilty. Is 5/8 plywood under a 12 to 13″ overhang sufficient?

The plate will be attached every 6″ with 3″ deck screws to the top of the knee wall (which is to transfer/hold the lifting tipping load). Both granite fabricator and kitchen contractor said 5/8 inch wood underneath was sufficient. The contractor routed out a 3/8″ dado in the vertical plywood wall for the vertical portion of the bracket. Bottom line – the 12″ counter overhang is completely supported, and there is nothing visible!

So, unless you plan to run a molding or something to hide the plywood, then metal brackets are the way to go.

Granitetilecountertops4 Support for On Granite Counter Top. Overhang End of Run

They will make little countersink holes for the screws if you tell them exactly where you want them. The granite overhangs about 15 inches in the center and curves around with a 12 inch overhead on the ends. The bars fall shy of the ends of the overhangs by about 4 inches. Nothing to knock your knees on and they’re painted black to match our stone. I had screw holes countersunk and offset every 8 inches along the sheet metal. If you can add a 2×4 between each stud (directly under the top board, side nailed into the studs). The builder has come in to support with 3/4 plywood and new granite but the plywood support even though it has edging is noticable and doesn’t work aesthetically. I would rather not have to replace the island counter for the bull nose edge (to cover the plywood) as my sink side counter is not bull nosed and that would require 2 new pieces of granite. It’s about 6′ x 18″ with a 12″ overhang going along the entire 6′. I will be tiling under the bar (where your legs would go if you were sitting at the bar) and trying to decide what to do with the supports. The corbels will be an eye sore and will look weird in conjunction with the surrounding tile. Ideally, they would be flush with the drywall, so that one could lay the tile right over the installation. The steel 1/2 inch would have to buckle to bend and being in granite that is a strong composite. My fabricator is planning to embed 5 steel rods, each long enough to span most of the cabinets in the countertop before extending into the overhang.

You could dance on it and not worry about it falling.

How To Frame A Kitchen Bar by homeguides.sfgate.com



While you could install a row of cabinetry and top it with a countertop, you can save a lot of money by framing a half wall instead. Create a template with cardboard, plastic sheeting or similar. Base the length on an estimate of 24 inches per person you need to seat. Connect with a straightedge and draw a line to show the wall position underneath the countertop as depicted by the template. Base the overhang on the amount of overhang allowed by the countertop manufacturer and the presence or absence of support braces or corbels. Made from two-by-fours, each actually 3 1/2 inches wide, even anchored tightly together they require a total of 7 inches minimum. Ensure a stud runs through the adjacent wall where one of the bar walls connects. Mark the adjoining wall, flush with the wall position marks made on the template, to guide installation. Run a straightedge across all the plates, aligned with the stud spacing marks. Switch ends and secure the second plate to the free stud ends, aligning each with the stud marks. Build a short wall to fit at the end of the bar, attached at a right angle. Cut two pieces of 3/4-inch-thick plywood to span the length and height of the short half wall. Screw in place along each stud, two at a time in a staggered pattern. Drive 3-inch screws through the end stud into the short wall framing.Drive 3-inch screws through the bar stud, into the adjacent wall’s studs, and 5-inch screws through the plate into the adjoining wall plate. To create shallow cabinetry, install shelves between the studs and install a couple of doors on one side. Cut out the installation area; install trim at the juncture when finished. Make it the perfect gathering place by framing a kitchen bar. Form a pattern that’s the same depth and length as the bar you visualize — typically anywhere from 18 to 30 inches in depth and generally a minimum of 4 to 6 feet long. Measure in two inches from the edge along the length of one side, making about four marks.Repeat on the opposite side, marking 12 to 15 inches in from the other edge to show the overhang. The space between the wall marks shows the width of the double-stud base construction. Build two identical half walls made from two-by-four lumber. Alternatively, increase the overhang and reduce the plate length for possible end seating. Measure and mark the outermost two studs to indicate the stud placement, whether 12 inches on center or standard 16-inch stud spacing. There, mark another stud 1 1/2 inches from the end regardless of how close the spacing. Sink nails through the plate, into the stud end, two at a time and slightly staggered. Form the second wall similarly to obtain two identical walls. Measure from one wall line, as marked on the template, to the opposite wall line. Stand one long wall up and position it flush with the edge of the short wall. Erect the bar and position as indicated by the marks on the adjacent wall. Drill pilot holes through the floor and attach every plate similarly, sinking into the floor joists whenever possible. High-grade veneer, drywall or even plywood are suitable choices.Remove unstable floor coverings such as carpet before installing the bar. Have an electrician run the wiring through the bar before sheathing it.

Install A Countertop by workbenchmagazine.com



Using color, texture, and edging details, countertops easily hold their own alongside vast expanses of cabinetry. Bob considered going to a local building center to purchase postformed units — those with the backsplash and edging formed in one piece — but in the end opted for site-built countertops. The edging and backsplash have a thin accent stripe that breaks up the expanse of the counters. Creating invisible seams with laminate is difficult, and often seams become glaringly obvious over time as water seeps in from repeated washings. This assured that the countertops would contact all base cabinet walls to provide adequate support. To be successful, you must reference the substrate to the front edge of the base cabinets so you have the same amount of overhang at all points. The main concern is to get the front edge of the substrate parallel with the base cabinet faces. Tilt the sander slightly to undercut the edge for a better fit. Then we measured the amount the leg overlapped the corner section at the butt-joint. By cutting along this scribe line, we also trimmed the leg to the proper length. Accurately fitting the back edge of the leg to the wall could only be done with the leg dry-fitted to the corner piece (with biscuits installed). Once the back edge was trimmed to shape, we slid it back into place to check the fit. Apply two coats of contact cement to both the laminate and substrate, and use spacer sticks to hold the laminate above the substrate until you have it positioned. Once we had a tight-fitting miter there, we marked and mitered the opposite ends, then mitered mating pieces for the outside corners. These hold the countertop firmly in position until the construction adhesive dries.

We plan to wrap up that final phase of this kitchen remodeling project with laminated wood flooring. But when it comes to visual impact, countertops can play an equally important role. What the budget allowed was plastic laminate covered countertops. The chance to pick a laminate and add edging of their choice was a big factor in the decision. Medex, we cut the corner as one section and butt-joined the leg piece to one end. I recommend cutting the leg section 2″ longer than its finished length to allow for final fitting. Don’t worry about minor gaps — they’ll be covered by the backsplash. This will make it easier to adjust the fit against the wall. Satisfied with the fit of the corner piece, next we turned our attention to fitting the leg section. First, we laid the leg on top of the base cabinets and corner section, butted its end against the wall, and established the uniform overhang. After writing this measurement down, we measured the widest gap between the wall and the other end of the substrate. Using this sum, we set our compass and scribed the substrate’s end to the wall. When you’re satisfied with the fit, remove the substrate sections and place them upside down on a flat surface. If necessary, apply wood filler to any low spots, and sand it smooth. I carefully unfurled it the day before we planned to attach it, laying it flat to remove any “memory” of being curled. After removing the spacers, secure the bond by working over the entire surface with a roller. Using the special slot-cutting bit we purchased with the edging, we routed test grooves in scrap to set the router depth.

We cut these last pieces to length so they butted against the walls. After checking the fit one last time, we applied construction adhesive to the top edges of the base cabinets and carefully set the countertop in place. Using a ready-made backsplash made this final step a simple process. The long piece went in first, then we coped the short pieces to fit against it. At least she was willing to overlook the plywood underlayment on the floor — for the time being.

Countertop Overhangs by solidsurfacedesigns.net



He was surprised when we told him he’d have to install a number of 6″ corbels to support the bar top. While the pony wall itself could easily bear the weight of the bartop, without corbels it becomes a fulcrum. As a standard installation rule 70% of the overall countertop width has to be supported by base cabinets, knee walls, corbels, etc. He wanted a 2 inch overhang on the kitchen side of wall which left nearly 12 inches of granite overhanging the dining side of the wall.He assumed all the installers had to do was “glue” the bartop to the top of the wall.

New Construction Home Ideas by homebunch.com



The room gets lots of natural light and the 17 foot vaulted ceilings with rough sawn beams add dimension and make the space feel even larger than it is. See all sources shared by the builder, including the floor plan at the end of the post. It opens into the family room which features panoramic doors that open fully to let the outdoors in on nice days. The beadboard ceiling with recessed lighting, large brick fireplace, and bluestone flooring makes you feel like you are in a room, while being outside enjoying the weather. It is tucked away near the garage and away from the main living spaces in the home. It’s such a cozy spot for curling up and reading a book or just relaxing and watching the world go by.

How To Build and Protect A Wood Vanity Top by housefulofhandmade.com



I couldn’t be more excited to share today’s remodel update!

However, our bathroom remodel has taken even longer than it probably should have. But today, we are one large step closer to having the spa-like bathroom of my dreams and it started with learning how to build & protect a wood vanity top.



Cost Of Laminate Countertops | Duration 2 Minutes 31 Seconds

I don’t know about you, but in our bathroom there is a lot of water!

Original formula has been around since 191o and is made to penetrate the wood to offer a waterproof finish. I used 4- 1×4 boards across the top and a 1×2 board for the edging along the front. Start by measuring carefully, then cut a piece of plywood that would be the size of your vanity top, minus the 3/4″ edging on the front (and sides if needed). Make sure to measure from the wall to the front of the vanity and measure in multiple spots along the vanity top. Make sure the plywood has an even overhang on the front of the vanity. To do this, use a scrap piece of wood or paint stirrer and tape a pencil to it so the wood is flush against the wall and the pencil tip is at the edge of the wood at the widest gap. Do this on any edge of the plywood that is going to be flush agains the wall. Clamp the board in place and secure with some 1″ wood screws from underneath. Make sure the cut the edges of any boards that will not be flush against the wall at a 45 degree angle. Cut the excess boards off the sides that will be flush against the walls. Obviously there will be more water around the sinks so this is a good precaution. Use a drill to make starter holes, then use a jig saw to finish the cutting.

You can also use a lint-free cloth dampened with mineral spirits. This finish is super awesome because it is a tung oil to penetrate the wood and a resin to seal and waterproof the wood. Immediately put the plug back on the container to keep out oxygen. The finish is not thick like a polyurethane coating, but more like a stain. The wood will start to darken as the finish absorbs into the wood, bringing out the natural deeper tones of it. Make sure to get all around the edging (even on the underside of it) and inside the sink holes. Let the coat cure with good ventilation (in our case, leaving the garage door open) for 24 hours.The second coat left a bit of sheen on the surface, but after the 24 hours was almost completely gone as it too had soaked into the wood. It has been almost 8 years since we ripped out our tiny, dated, disgusting master bathroom. Now you will want to scribe the curves of the wall onto the plywood so you get a nice tight fit agains the wall. Then keeping the wood flush against the wall, run the pencil along the entire piece of wood, drawing the line of the wall onto the plywood. Now you have a piece of plywood that should fit nicely on top of your vanity. Cut the edges that will not be against the wall at 45 degree angles. Add a line of construction adhesive to the underside of the wood board and then carefully line the bottom edges of the 45 degree angle with the top edges of the plywood.Once all the top boards are secure, it is time to add the edge boards. I cut the 1×2 board for the very front of the vanity with my table saw. I feel like it looks nicer to have the seam in the boards on the side the same as you do on the top. Flip the vanity over so the plywood is on top and use the plywood that was already cut to fit flush against the wall as a guide to cut away the excess boards. Use the cutting guide that comes with your sinks to cut the holes. After sanding, make sure to clean off the surface of your wood so you have no lingering dust. There was no wind so we didn’t have to worry about dust being blown into the finish before it dried. I was a bit scared to finally put sealer to the wood, but it went on like… well, like water. Using a natural bristle brush, soak up a good amount of the sealer and brush it onto the wood. Feather out the strokes so you don’t end up with thick spots. If it is cold or humid or you have poor ventilation it can take longer than 24 hours to cure. I was really impressed with how much it was truly penetrating the wood. The whole surface had a sheen, that will dull to more of a satin sheen as the finish continues to cure. It will continue to need adequate oxygen (which we will give it with open windows in the bedroom and fans) for about 30 days until the surface is fully cured. Add some rustic warmth to your farmhouse bathroom by adding a waterproof wood vanity top.

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